If you’re choosing between morning and afternoon, here’s the one‑line answer: visit the Nativity side and the cool‑toned glass in the morning; save the Passion side and the warm‑toned glass for late afternoon. Everything else is about how long you have and what you want to feel.
Orientation in 60 seconds
- Nativity Façade (East) → best in the morning. Stone reads crisp; textures pop.
- Passion Façade (West) → best in the late afternoon/evening. Long shadows dramatize the scenes.
- Interior stained glass → cool blues/greens bloom in the morning; fiery reds/golds ignite in late afternoon.
- Golden hour adds warmth to everything; winter sunlight is lower and more theatrical than summer.
Ideal time slots by goal
- Quick wow (45–60 min):
- 09:00–10:30 → serene nave, cool palette, fewer crowds.
- 16:30–18:30 → warm gradients across columns, dramatic Passion Façade.
- Deep read (2–3 hours):
- Start with Nativity outside → enter the nave mid‑morning → return to Passion late day.
- Add the museum to decode models and geometry between light peaks.
- Photographers:
- Morning (09:00–11:00): low contrast, bluish light; great for interiors and details.
- Late afternoon (winter 15:30–17:30; summer 18:00–20:00): high contrast and amber wash on columns.
What glows when
- Morning
- East glass (creation colors) throws cool washes on the north‑south aisles.
- Column flutes show fine relief; the nave feels contemplative.
- Exterior carvings on the Nativity read like a botanical textbook.
- Afternoon
- West glass layers oranges, reds, and golds across the forest of columns.
- The Passion plane casts long, sharp shadows—perfect for the Stations.
- The nave ambience turns celebratory and cinematic.
Sample routes
Morning route (75–90 minutes)
- Outside the Nativity (15 min).
- Enter nave; sit under the crossing and look up (15 min).
- Slow aisle walk for stained‑glass gradients (20 min).
- Museum (20–30 min) to connect light with geometry.
Afternoon route (75–90 minutes)
- Outside the Passion (15–20 min).
- Enter nave for warm glass (30–40 min).
- Optional tower add‑on for sunset views (if available).
Weather and season tweaks
- Winter: lower sun → longer shadows; earlier “golden hour.”
- Summer: higher sun → softer interior contrast at midday; latest, longest glow in the evening.
- Cloudy days: even light; the glass still saturates—excellent for balanced photos.
Practical notes
- Book timed entry; arrive 10–15 minutes early.
- Keep your QR code offline; security is airport‑style but smooth with light bags.
- Respect liturgical areas; hats off inside.
- Want both moods? Split the visit: quick morning look + return late afternoon.